Perhaps something is in the water, or maybe it’s our humidity, but our culinary traditions have harvested a bumper crop of fabulously talented homegrown chefs. Just as we know we can rely on our seasons to produce such delicious native products as Ponchatoula strawberries, Creole tomatoes and Lake Pontchartrain crabs, we are equally blessed with local chefs in whose magical hands these products become culinary works of art. The recipes featured here are just a small sampling of the treasures from their kitchens.

I invite you to explore these and other northshore restaurants—and always remember to send your compliments to the chef!

Nealy Crawford
and Keith Frentz
Chefs-Owners of LOLA Restaurant, Covngton

Combining their talents and a shared love of southern foods, these two young chefs stirred their different culinary approaches together to create a delightful blend of fine casual dining at the old depot in Covington. Chef Nealy Crawford, from Ocean Springs, Mississippi, brings a natural graciousness and charm to the restaurant. Chef Keith Frentz, a native of Covington and a St. Paul alumnus, says, “I have always had a passion for cooking. My great-grandfather cooked and owned restaurants in the French Quarter. I think it was my destiny to carry on the torch.”

Both attended the prestigious Johnson and Wales Culinary Institute. Nealy received an associate degree in culinary arts at the Providence, R.I. location. Keith, after graduating from the University of Southern Mississippi with a bachelor’s in hospitality management, continued his studies at the institute in Charleston, S.C., graduating with a culinary arts degree.

They met as members of the kitchen staff at Brennan’s on Royal Street, but it took a hurricane to pry them loose from what they thought would be their career path. When it became evident that Brennan’s would not reopen immediately after the storm, Nealy and Keith created a catering business called “Thyme to Eat.” The immediate success of this venture led them to an unexpected opportunity that put their long-term goals on a super-fast track. Within weeks of learning that the restaurant in the old depot in Covington was for sale, Nealy and Keith struck a deal and launched LOLA Restaurant.

LOLA’s sandwiches are made on in-house-baked focaccia bread, and each day brings a choice of two freshly prepared soups. The changing Blue Plate Specials offer delicious variations on Southern classics. Nothing is more refreshing than the fresh strawberry lemonade, and the Humming Bird Cake is a sweet southern sensation!

LOLA CREOLE SHRIMP AND GRITS

Creole Tomato Sauce
1 yellow onion, diced
1 bell pepper, diced
2 stalks celery, diced
3 cloves of garlic, minced
1/2 cup tomato paste
4 cans (8 ounces each) tomato sauce
8 ounces water
2 tablespoons olive oil
Salt, pepper and thyme to taste
 
Warm olive oil in a medium-sized pot, and then add celery, onions and bell pepper to sauté until translucent. Add garlic, being careful to avoid browning the garlic, and cook an additional 2 minutes. Stir in tomato paste, simmering to allow paste to blend with the onion mixture. Add tomato sauce and water to thin the sauce. Simmer over low flame for 30-45 minutes. Add seasonings to taste.

Grits

6 cups water
2 cups stone-ground grits
1 tablespoon salt
3 tablespoons butter

In a medium-sized heavy pot, bring the water, salt and butter to a boil. Stir in grits. Continue stirring to prevent burning. Cook for 5-7 minutes, until grits are creamy and thick. Place the pot of cooked grits inside a larger pan of hot water to keep grits warm while assembling the dish.

Assembling

3 dozen large shrimp (16/20 size), peeled and de-veined
4 tablespoons butter
3 tablespoons Parmesan cheese, grated fine

In a large sauté pan, melt butter, and then add shrimp. Cook shrimp half-way through, just until they turn a light pink. Add the Creole tomato sauce and simmer for an additional 5 minutes. To serve, spoon grits onto plate, then add 6 large shrimp per serving. Add sauce, and then top each dish with 1/2 tablespoon grated Parmesan cheese. Yield, 6 servings.

Tommy Masaracchia
Chef-Partner of Tope Lá Restaurant, Hammond

Since 1978, when he began his culinary career in local Hammond restaurants, Chef Tommy Masaracchia has taken his native Louisiana cuisine to new heights, gaining worldwide acclaim and awards for his innovative approach to classic Creole and Cajun fare.
While at the Colony Beach and Tennis Resort on Longboat Key, Fla., his restaurant was fêted with the Silver Spoon Award as one of the top 10 restaurants in the state. Always seeking new challenges, Tommy moved on to serve as personal chef to the owners of Ralph and Kacoo’s restaurants. He was later promoted to executive chef of their catering division, Glynnwood Catering, where he soon assumed the duties of corporate chef, responsible for research and development of new recipes and products. During this time, Chef Tommy expanded his horizons, traveling extensively within the United States and abroad to promote Cajun and Creole cuisine. He introduced his “tastes of Louisiana cuisine” throughout the world to countries such as Germany, New Zealand and Japan.

Tommy’s accomplishments include cooking for former presidents Bush, Reagan and Ford during the 1988 Republican Convention in New Orleans. He was named Chef of the Year by the American Culinary Federation of Greater Baton Rouge in 1993, and was awarded Best in Show and People’s Choice in the Baton Rouge Culinary Classic in 1996.

In 1999, Tommy partnered with Jim Hebert, Tracy Barringer and Troy Tallo to open Tope Lá Restaurant in his hometown of Hammond. This comfortable bistro, which specializes in contemporary Louisiana cuisine, has enjoyed enormous success. Tope Lá was recognized by The Daily Star People’s Choice Award polls of 2002, 2003 and 2004 for having the best food of any restaurant in Hammond.

Says Chef Tommy, “Our vision is to serve each and every guest with our fresh, quality food and to provide flawless service. We are constantly striving for perfection.” We can all look forward to the great food and service of Tope Lá restaurant at new locations, as future expansions are already on the drawing board.

MARINATED AND SEARED CAJUN SALMON ROULADE

Salmon Marinade

16 ounces olive oil (not extra virgin)
6 ounces cane syrup
1/2 cup white wine
3 ounces lemon juice
2 ounces light brown sugar
6 garlic pods, minced
1 small onion, cut into julienne strips
2 teaspoons dried dill weed
2 teaspoons salt, preferably kosher
2 teaspoons coarse black pepper

Add all ingredients in order given and mix well. Refrigerate until ready to use.

Salmon Roulade

10 3-ounce strips of salmon, cut to 2” wide x 5” long x 3/4” thick
5 tablespoons butter, for searing salmon roulades
1/2 cup cane syrup, for drizzling over finished roulades
Salmon Mousse (recipe follows)
Caramelized Tasso (recipe follows)

Salmon Mousse

6 ounces salmon scraps (pieces leftover from cut strips)
2 ounces uncooked shrimp
2 ounces heavy whipping cream
1 egg
Salt, cayenne pepper to taste

Puree salmon and shrimp in a food processor, scraping down the sides as necessary. Add the cream and egg and process until the cream and egg are fully incorporated, but do not over mix. Season mousse with salt and cayenne pepper. Refrigerate until ready for assembly. The mousse should be very cold before using.
 
Caramelized Tasso

2 tablespoons butter
6 ounces tasso, chopped or ground
1/4 cup green onions, minced
2 teaspoons garlic, minced
1 ounce white wine
1 1/2 ounces brown sugar
 
Heat butter and sauté ground tasso, adding green onions and garlic and cooking until tasso starts to stick to bottom of the pan. Scrape pan to loosen tasso, and then add wine. Cook on high heat until wine evaporates. Add sugar and stir continuously while scraping the pan. Mixture should not have much liquid. Set aside and cool.

Assembling

Lay salmon strips on cutting board, skin side down. Spread chilled mousse evenly over top surface of each salmon strip. Sprinkle tasso mixture over the mousse. Starting at one end of the salmon strip, roll as to make a pinwheel. Secure each roll with toothpicks. Continue until all the salmon strips are rolled. Place salmon in a baking pan and cover with reserved marinade. Refrigerate a minimum of 24 hours. When ready to cook, heat a cast-iron skillet with butter and sear salmon on both sides until golden brown. Do not allow butter to burn, as salmon will then turn dark black. Finish by baking in a pre-heated 350° oven for approximately 10 minutes. Place each salmon roulade on a plate and lightly drizzle with cane syrup. May be served with pecan rice or any other favorite side dish. Yield, 10 servings.