Bonne Bouchee: Local Markets With International Flair

by Sandra S. Juneau

Like open-air markets around the world, the weekly outdoor markets on the northshore hold a mysterious mix of products brought together by vendors from across the area. Shoppers can find unique handcrafted items in whimsical designs to satisfy their individual tastes. For the gardener, there are native flowering plants, fruit trees and fresh herbs to be transplanted to your home garden. Tucked between the crafts tables and plant stalls are delicious treasures of specialty foods from the multi-cultural cuisines that abound in our area.

Crowds seek out the locally prepared international delights that fill the air with their delicious aromas, offered either for you to taste as you shop or as take-outs to be savored at home. Freshness is the key, as produce and seafood come directly to the markets from small farms and fisheries, while cooked foods, lovingly prepared from family recipes and packaged in small batches, have the taste of homemade goodness within each bite.

Weekly standards include the Greek staples of hummus (chickpea and sesame seed-tahini dip) and babagannush (roasted eggplant dip). From Roma’s Roti Café of Mandeville, there are shrimp and chicken curry and other dishes of Indian and West Indian cuisine. The Blue Moon Bakery of Covington features vegetable and cheese quiches, specialty breads available by the loaf or by the slice (such as zucchini, banana walnut, pepper cheese and sweet onion) and freshly baked Hammentaschen (apricot- or strawberry-filled cookies). The Garcia family, originally from Ixmiquilpan in the Hidalgo state of Mexico, offers homemade flan (sweetened egg custard), as well as tamales of pork and chicken. From Honduras, there are pupusas (meat-stuffed pastries), tostadas (grilled corn tortillas filled with meat or beans) and, to wash it all down, fresh fruit juices and a South American corn drink called atul de late.

Look for seasonal items that will only be available during a few short weeks this fall, such as fresh Japanese Fuji persimmons and locally grown pumpkins. What you will find all year are such enticing specialties as: fresh farm eggs in shades of blue and green from Symphony Farms; Creole cream cheese from Mauthe’s Creamery in Folsom; anise, fig and sesame seed cookies from Theresa’s Italian Cookies; hand-roasted Brazilian coffee beans from Porter’s Friend; Asian green, black and white teas from DéMurs Fine Teas; and Sicilian caponata (eggplant relish) from the Notarianos. There is also a variety of pickles, jams and jellies from different vendors—including mirleton and watermelon pickles, muscadine pepper jelly, port wine jelly, fig preserves, cranberry relish and blackberry jam.

Shopping these local markets has become a tradition of our easygoing lifestyle here on the northshore. As vendors visit with friends, shoppers browse, taste and enjoy the amazing variety of treasures to be found each week. For lagniappe, there’s usually live local music for down-home entertainment! Many ingredients used in the following recipes can be found at local markets, but some for just a short time. Enjoy them while you can!

PUMPKIN BISQUE

4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
4 tablespoons butter
I large yellow onion, chopped fine
2 cups fresh pumpkin, puréed (canned can be substituted)
1 quart fresh chicken stock, fat removed and strained
1 pint half & half cream
2 teaspoons fresh thyme leaves, crushed
Salt and pepper to taste
1 cup Parmesan cheese, freshly grated
4 tablespoons fresh parsley, chopped fine

In a large heavy pot, heat olive oil and butter over medium heat. Sauté onions until limp. Add pumpkin purée and simmer for several minutes. Add chicken stock and bring to boiling. Reduce heat to low and stir in cream, simmering to blend flavors. Add thyme. Taste to correct seasonings and add salt and pepper to taste, only if needed. Remove from heat. Stir in 3/4 cup Parmesan cheese, reserving 1/4 cup for garnish.

To serve, top with chopped parsley and remaining Parmesan cheese. For extra drama, serve soup in a fresh pumpkin “tureen.” Select a large, well-rounded pumpkin with stem still attached. Cut off the top at about 1/3 width of pumpkin from the stem and cut out a notch to accommodate a ladle. Remove seeds and pith to fully clean and dry the inside of pumpkin shell. Clean the outside of pumpkin, shining the skin with a light coating of vegetable oil. Pour hot soup directly into pumpkin, or place a glass bowl into pumpkin and pour soup into the bowl. Insert serving ladle and cover with pumpkin top.

PERSIMMON BREAD

3 1/2 cups flour
4 teaspoons cinnamon
1 teaspoon nutmeg, freshly grated
1/2 teaspoon allspice
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon baking soda
2 teaspoons baking powder
4 eggs, separated
1 cup sugar
1 cup vegetable oil
1/2 cup orange juice, freshly squeezed
2 cups fresh persimmon pulp

Preheat oven to 350°. Prepare two loaf pans by greasing with vegetable shortening and dusting flour. Set aside. Sift together dry ingredients, combining flour with spices, salt, baking soda and baking powder. Set aside. Beat egg whites to a soft-peak stage. Set aside.

In a large bowl, beat egg yolks, gradually adding sugar until fully combined. Add vegetable oil, orange juice and persimmon pulp, mixing to blend thoroughly. Add sifted dry ingredients into the persimmon mixture, mixing to incorporate fully. Gently fold in beaten egg whites. Pour into prepared pans.

Bake for 1 hour, or until center is firm and bread-test done—when a toothpick inserted in center comes out clean.