by Sandra S. Juneau

Well before the official beginning of spring on March 21, we experience a hint of the season as fresh new mint peeps up through dormant flowerbeds. Beyond “Parsley, Sage, Rosemary and Thyme,” the smells of spring on the northshore include such delicious flavors as fresh anise, basil, chives, dill, oregano and lemon verbena, adding their earthy goodness to specialty seasonal dishes.

If the scent of spring is rousing your gardening or culinary instincts, there are fresh herbs available directly from the growers through several local resources. The Farmer’s Markets in Covington and Mandeville regularly feature sellers with fresh garden herbs.

At Half Moon Gardens in Abita Springs, owner Craig Houin will guide you through the methods for planting and harvesting his many varieties of herbs, and you’ll find ample inspiration in his indoor/outdoor gift shop. Fisher Farms, located in old Mandeville and one of only seven state-certified organic growers in Louisiana, has starter plants for sale that include assorted herbs, heirloom tomatoes and cucumbers. Chef Chuck Fisher and his wife, Brandi, are happy to make specialty mixes for their loyal customers or restaurant buyers. By mid-summer, the farm plans to introduce his organic tomato sauce and assorted varieties of pesto.

During this awakening of nature, try a taste sensation worthy of the miracle of spring. Infuse some new flavors into your cooking, or try out a new herb variety, like orange or chocolate mint, lemon thyme or Sicilian oregano. Venture out to try the great creations of area chefs. Whichever way you choose to celebrate the season, just remember—herbs spring eternal!

LA PROVENCE

When springtime arrives in Lacombe, La Provence celebrates with a magical mirroring of southern France’s traditional cuisine, utilizing our native Louisiana flavors, such as Abita Springs quail and freshly grown herbs. In true French provincial style, each dish at La Provence is lovingly prepared to highlight the freshness of its ingredients. Chef Constantin Kerageorgiou’s remarkable gifts for hospitality have made him an internationally recognized cuisinier. When Chef Chris arrives at your table, with that twinkle in his eye, you know you are in for a culinary treat. It is obvious from tasting his delicious creations that he is still enjoying the success of his talents after 30 years as chef-proprietor at La Provence.

CAILLES GRILLES AUX HERBS FRAICHES
(Quail Marinated in Fresh Herbs)

2 quail, cut in half, rib cage removed
Approximately 1/4 cup olive oil—enough to coat quail
1 teaspoon fresh or dried thyme
1 bay leaf
1 teaspoon coarse ground black pepper
Salt and white pepper to taste
1 tablespoon butter
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 teaspoon fresh or dried thyme
Additional fresh thyme sprigs for garnish

Prepare marinade by adding thyme, bay leaf and coarse ground black pepper to olive oil, stirring to blend ingredients. Thoroughly coat quail in marinade and refrigerate overnight.

Remove quail from marinade and rub with salt, white pepper and additional teaspoon of thyme. In a large skillet, heat together butter and olive oil. Place quail in skillet, skin side down, and cook on medium heat for approximately two minutes on each side, until quail begins to brown. Remove to plate, cover and allow flavors to settle into meat. Serve over rice, garnished with fresh thyme sprigs. Yield, 1 serving.

D. LAMARQUE’S RESTAURANT

Dennis Lamarque, his wife, Maria, and their two sons, Brett and Brandon, bring the Lamarque family commitment to excellence to a new venture—D. Lamarque’s Restaurant in Mandeville. Featuring “Italian with a twist,” their vision is to “serve the best food, offer a great wine selection and provide friendly service, all in a casual fine dining atmosphere.”

They have assembled an outstanding staff, headed by General Manager Vincent Maffei and Executive Chef Andrew Thornton, whose unique culinary style is based not only on presentation, but also on the blending of herbs and spices with his one-of-a-kind versions of classical entrees. The comfortable neighborhood setting belies the sophistication of the menu, which features such delectable offerings as Pan-Roasted Duck Breast, Grilled Sashami Tuna al la Putanesca, and Veal Scalloppini, which is served on a bed of wild mushroom risotto with a classic lemon-caper sauce. Each season brings new menu specialties, capturing the peak of seasonal flavors. The featured dish for spring is Fresh Grilled Fish, served over pesto-sauced orzo pasta and accompanied by a ring mold of sautéed fresh vegetables.

ORZO PASTA PESTO SAUCE

4 cups cooked orzo (a small, rice-shaped pasta)
2 cups whole cream
5 sprigs fresh basil leaves (approximately 1/3 cup), picked from stems
1/2 cup pine nuts, toasted
Sea salt, to taste
Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
1 cup extra virgin olive oil

Blanch basil leaves quickly in boiling water and immediately plunge in iced water. Remove from water and pat dry on paper towels. In a mortar and pestle, crush pine nuts and add basil leaves, mashing to a paste. Add paste to a bowl, and then add the olive oil, whisking until fully infused. Add salt and pepper to taste.

Simmer whole cream to reduce liquid to one cup. Add pesto to cream, stirring to a smooth sauce. Keep sauce on lowest heat setting to warm only.

Cook orzo pasta according to package directions. Drain pasta thoroughly, and then fold gently into pesto cream sauce. Serve immediately, preferably topped with grilled fish. Yield, 4 servings.