Until a few months ago, I had never been to New York City – but when I got there, it felt like home.
Where else does everything seem so familiar? Deborah Kerr’s Empire State Building – you know, the meeting spot in “An Affair to Remember.” The ferry to the Statue of Liberty. And some of the most recognizable streets in America – Madison Avenue, Central Park, Fifth Avenue, Wall Street, and 42nd Street.

As a child, I read “A Tree Grows in Brooklyn.” I watched Gene Kelly movies and the infamous “King Kong.” New York was the setting for the countless books that shaped my perception of the world. I imagined myself living in the Village, scribbling the great American novel in a dimly lit Italian restaurant. It seemed as though every writer of consequence lived in New York. I majored in journalism, but the closest I got to New York City was watching Saturday Night Live and Dick Clark on New Year’s Eve in Times Square.

In four and a half days, I tried to live a lifetime. With my husband and eleven-year-old son, I explored New York. Despite the knowledge I’d gleaned from four decades of reading and movies, the city still surprised me.

The buildings

The size of the buildings cannot be conveyed in photographs or films. My husband mistook a post office for a courthouse. The columned structure covered an entire block. Like country bumpkins, we strolled through Grand Central Terminal staring at the chandeliers, startled to find such opulence in a train station. The floor rose like a small hill. Hundreds, or perhaps thousands, of people moved quickly through the terminal, catching a train, or perhaps catching a bite to eat at one of the many dining establishments.

The city’s architecture is filled with fine details. Doorways are arched; gargoyles are perched on ledges; brickwork is intricate; glass is etched; granite is common; and the entrances to brownstones are framed by wrought iron gates. Hundreds of apartment buildings and hotels are crammed amongst the world-renowned skyscrapers. The Art Deco influence is most apparent on the Chrysler Building, with its fish-scale pinnacle that glimmers during the day and shines at night. Storybook cathedrals are wedged between office buildings. The Empire State Building, only five blocks from our hotel, served as a landmark. Wherever we were, we could point in the direction of our temporary home.

I thought I would feel small, but I didn’t. I wanted to linger with a camera and capture the delicate details of molding on a doorway or the unique shadow that a window cast, but there wasn’t time. I thought of the skilled craftsmen who took the time to create such beauty. They must have been so proud.

Battery Park and the Lady

We took a cab ride to Battery Park. I’d been told the streets were jammed. I expected to sit in bumper-to-bumper traffic. Instead, the cabbie drove as if pursued by an angry god. Honking, cursing, and just missing pedestrians, the ride felt as if we were inside one of my son’s computer games and the clock was ticking down. At times, I closed my eyes. (If I were Catholic, I would have made the sign of the cross.) Miraculously, we arrived at our destination. Walking was beginning to hold a greater appeal.

The park was fairly quiet as we purchased our tickets for the ferry ride. We joined the other tourists under a white tent and waited in line. Security scanned us, the men had to remove their belts, and our backpacks were checked. We boarded the ferry and sat as it slowly rocked back and forth. I was beginning to wish I hadn’t had breakfast. My stomach was queasy and we were still at the dock. Two men from California advised me to move to the center of the boat. “You won’t feel the motion,” they said.

Finally, the boat began to move. We could see the Lady in the distance. I imagined our relatives looking up at her. Surely, they must have been amazed. I expected the passengers to sit silently and show reverence for the moment, but they didn’t. The statue is huge. It’s green and, like an Emma doll, she is a full-figured gal! We didn’t get off at Liberty Island, because, since 9-11, no one is allowed to climb inside the Statue of Liberty. But I was content; I’d seen “The Statue.”

Ellis Island

Ellis Island was the gateway that more than 12 million immigrants passed through between 1892 and 1954 in their search for freedom of speech and religion, and for economic opportunity. Today, their descendents account for almost 40 percent of the U.S. population. In 1965, Ellis Island was declared part of the Statue of Liberty National Monument. After a six-year, $162 million renovation, it reopened to the public as a museum in 1990.

The Ellis Island Immigration Museum is a stunning 19th century building. Visitors stand in the hall where immigrants clung to their children as they clutched all their worldly possessions. Most of them came from Europe, and had little money. They had to prove they were healthy or they’d be sent back to their homeland. When they came to America, they said good-by to their families, knowing they would never see each other again.

We began our visit by viewing a three-person play, “Embracing Freedom: The Immigrant Journey to America.” On a stage that wasn’t even ten feet wide, the actors took us back in time. A father had moved to America and worked for three years to earn the steamship passage for his wife and daughter. The family brought one suitcase. Sustained by the dreams of a better life in America, they endured the hardships of the journey.

They rode below deck in steerage, so-called because it was located on the lower decks where the steering mechanism of the sailing ships had once been housed. Two thousand passengers were on board. They lived for days or even weeks in dormitories with metal-framed berths jammed three bunks high. The air was rank with the odor of seasickness, unwashed bodies and the lack of toilet facilities. We watched them as they saw the Statue of Liberty welcoming them to America.

We saw their fear as they landed in a foreign land where immigration officials barked at them and public health doctors prodded and inspected them. The lines and the wait were long. Finally, they passed the inspection and were reunited with the father. I cried.

The museum’s walls are filled with black and white photographs of the immigrants. They look tired and startled. We wandered from one display to another, reading the stories of people who came from Italy, Austria, Hungary, Russia, Finland, England, Ireland, Scotland, Germany and Poland. Their history is our history.

Taking a moment to live in the present, we bought pizza and hamburgers. Kids from a school field trip ran by our table, shouting “hello.” Outside is the American Immigrant Wall of Honor, with nearly half a million entries. It is the largest wall of names in the world. We searched for names from our family tree, and found Twardowski, Wagner, Dobbs and Peterson.

Consulting our museum brochure, my son, Weston, and I looked at the small photo inset of the Manhattan skyline. We seemed to be standing in the same spot as the photographer, only his photo included the World Trade Center. It was at that moment we grasped how large the Twin Towers had loomed. Their height was twice that of any other structure.

Ground Zero

Returning to Battery Park, we decided to walk the few short blocks down West Street to Ground Zero. Until that moment, we hadn’t been sure we would go. The surrounding skyscrapers were draped with dark protective coverings, as though they were wearing shrouds. The air was thick with dust. People stood beside a tall fence by a deep, wide pit, chatting and laughing. My son was shocked when he spotted a vendor selling soft drinks from his stand. I closed my eyes and said a silent prayer – I couldn’t speak. My eyes filled with tears. I didn’t want to, but I sobbed. I cried for the dead. I cried for their loved ones. I cried for America.

The city at night

New York is resilient. The city has energy. Times Square at night, just before the Broadway shows begin, is crowded with people. The headlines scroll across the buildings, and television screens are the size of billboards. At MTV, live dancers are in the window. Stores are crammed with shoppers. Work is over and people are happy. Police mingle with the throng. It just feels good to be alive.

Our first Broadway show, aptly titled “Thoroughly Modern Millie,” is the tale of a young girl’s move from a small Kansas town to the big city. In the opening number, Millie is beaming; the New York skyline is behind her. Everyone told her she’d be sad and blue in the big city. In her pocket, she carries insurance – a one-way ticket home. But before the opening number ends, Millie tears up the ticket. New York is home.

A part of me wanted to be Millie. Move to New York. Pursue the dream. But Millie grows up. She loses her naiveté, but not her enthusiasm. I, too, have grown up. I’m back in Louisiana now. Life is slower here in the suburbs. Neighbors go inside when it is dark. A big night out is going to the movies. It’s not New York, but it’s home.

THE BIG APPLE FOR KIDS

AMERICAN MUSEUM OF NATURAL HISTORY

The 125-year-old museum spreads over several city blocks. Home to the single largest collection of dinosaur fossils in the world, it has more than 100 specimens. The Mammal Halls are windows where the Asian, North American and African animals are displayed in their natural habitats. The internationally recognized Rose Center for Earth and Space houses the Hayden Planetarium, the most technologically advanced space theater in existence.

Into the Woods

Vanessa Williams is bewitching in this Stephen Sondheim musical. The first act consists of four familiar fairy tales told with wit and humor. The second act becomes a bit darker. Wishes have been granted and the characters suffer the consequences. The score and lyrics are complex, the costumes and set stunning, and the show is thought provoking. A very grown-up musical, “Into the Woods” won the 2002 Tony for best musical revival.

CHINA TOWN

Saturday morning in China Town feels as though you’ve taken an international journey. Everyone speaks Chinese. The street vendors parade exotic foods like dried seaweed – and also imported figurines, delicate handbags, and loads of tourist souvenirs. Bargain hunters can pick up four New York tee shirts for $10. Be sure to barter. We bought a toy New York taxicab for $2. The same car cost $8.99 at the airport gift shop. Step inside a shop and explore. In a candy store, we tasted dried rose petals.

on BROADWAY… Thoroughly Modern Millie

Bright and bouncy Millie Dillmount is a modern woman in the Roaring ‘20s. New to Manhattan, she is a wide-eyed, innocent flapper, determined to marry for money. The storyline provides plenty of romance. The villain of the show is Mrs. Meers, who disguises herself in Chinese attire and a hysterically bad accent. Thoroughly appropriate for kids, the show won six Tony awards in 2002.

EMPIRE STATE BUILDING

Better than the Tower of Terror, the ear-popping ascent to the Empire State Building’s 86th floor observatory leads to a spectacular view of the city. Go at night to appreciate the city lights. Take a jacket. (We avoided the hour-long wait to purchase tickets by using our CityPass coupons.)

JEKYLL AND HYDE CLUB

Every day is Halloween at the Jekyll and Hyde Club. Actors dressed as mad scientists and other ghoulish characters entertain patrons with live stage shows and animatronics. The four-story restaurant is dark, creepy, and perfect for kids who enjoy being scared.

TOYS “R” US TIMES SQUARE

Even better than FAO Schwarz, the flagship Toys “R” Us store is the largest toy store in the world. Inside, a 60-foot-tall working Ferris wheel takes shoppers on a tour of the store. Don’t miss the Empire State Building and the Statue of Liberty built from Legos. Barbie has a two-story high dollhouse. Juraissic Park fans won’t be disappointed with the 20-foot-high, 34-foot-long animatronics T-Rex dinosaur.

INSIDER TIPS

The easiest way to get around New York and see the most sights is to walk. You will enjoy window-shopping, corner delis with their bright floral bouquets, and the Art Deco architecture. If your visit is short, save time by taking cabs, but be aware that when the cab drivers change shifts around 4 p.m., it is difficult to hail one.

When planning your trip, visit the city’s official tourism web site at nycvisit.com. It includes maps, hotels, attractions, and discounts. Check out Go City Kids on the Internet. The site has a calendar of kid-friendly New York attractions. (See: gocitykids.com)

A New York CityPass gets you into seven famous attractions for almost half the price. (See: citypass.com)
Manhattan East Suites is a collection of all-suite hotels located throughout the city. Their full kitchens and spacious rooms are a great choice for families.
(See: mesuite.com)

Copyright 2003, M&L Publishing, all rights reserved.