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Soft Shell Crabs and Blueberries

by Sandra S. Juneau
What better way to enjoy this laid-back season than with our summertime blues-blue soft shell crabs and native-grown blueberries. These seasonal delicacies are at the peak of perfection during summer months. Soft shell crabs run "fat" during the heat of summer, and the northshore blueberry crop is bursting with sweetness under sun-drenched skies.

The lure of fresh soft shell crabs has been drawing devotees to the northshore for generations. Only recently have they been made available year round. The process of molting-when the crab sheds its outer shell-has been replicated by farming the crabs in a temperature-controlled tank. Less desirable, but also available year round, are frozen soft shells.

Blueberries, native to North America, have been used for centuries as a natural home remedy. Through recent research, they have gained a reputation for many health benefits, and are being utilized as antioxidants, in disease prevention and as anti-aging agents. Best news of all, whether fresh, frozen or preserved, they still taste delicious!

TREY YUEN

Good luck brought the five Wong brothers to us on the northshore. In 1971, they opened the original Trey Yuen in Hammond; Trey Yuen in Mandeville followed nine years later. They spin a magical fusion of their traditional Chinese cuisine with the best of our local seafood. This Soft Shell Crab with Tong Cho Sauce is just one of several outstanding examples of the unique flavors you will experience from their menu.

Soft Shell Crab

1 soft shell crab
7 tablespoons flour
3 tablespoons cornstarch
1/2 cup milk
4 tablespoons ice water
1 egg, slightly beaten
Salt and pepper to taste
1 pinch cayenne pepper
Vegetable oil

Thoroughly clean soft shell crab by removing gills-known as dead man's claws-and pinching out eyes and mouth. Rinse thoroughly and set aside on paper towels.

Mix flour and cornstarch and season to taste with salt, black pepper and cayenne pepper. Add milk and water to egg. Dip crab in egg wash and lightly dredge with flour.

Heat oil to 325§. Dip crab legs into hot oil first to stiffen legs, then gently add full crab to oil. Fry for 4-6 minutes, depending on size of crab. Remove from oil and drain on paper towels, allowing crab to rest and expel excess moisture.

Just before serving, return to heated oil and fry for 1-2 minutes to crisp crab. Remove crab and serve immediately, topped with Tong Cho Sauce. (Tong Cho Sauce is available for purchase at both Trey Yuen locations.)

ANNADELLE PLANTATION

As one of the grand old homes of south Louisiana, Annadelle Plantation in Covington has been home to several prominent families. One such resident was the daughter of a former New Orleans mayor, Walter C. Flower. She no doubt drew inspiration for her legendary New Orleans restaurant, Corrine Dunbar's, from the many summers she spent in this gracious setting during the 1890s. Now in the hands of seasoned restaurateur Pat Gallagher, Annadelle Plantation is being reawakened with a tradition-based menu. While secrets of the past lie tucked inside her walls, this exquisitely refurbished home holds the promise of legendary future celebrations under her roof.

Smoked Soft Shell Crab with Smoked Tomato Jalapeno Cream

4 fresh jumbo soft shell crabs
1/2 cup all-purpose flour
1/4 cup corn flour (not corn meal)
2 eggs, slightly beaten
1/2 cup milk
White pepper and creole seasoning to taste

Clean soft shell crabs and set aside in refrigerator.

Heat smoker and place a tray of ice inside the smoker to maintain a temperature of no more than 165§. Place crabs in a pan over the ice to allow crabs to "cold smoke" for 10-15 minutes, cautiously watching to see that the temperature does not get too hot. Since soft shell crabs are made up largely of liquid, they will absorb the smoky flavor.

Season the flour and corn flour separately with white pepper and creole seasoning to taste. Add milk to beaten eggs. Dredge the crabs in seasoned all-purpose flour, dip into egg wash, and then dust with the seasoned corn flour. Deep fry at 375§, or pan fry for approximately 4 minutes until golden and crispy.

Tomato Jalapeno Cream Sauce

1 pint heavy (whipping) cream
4 creole tomatoes, pre-smoked
Fresh parsley, chopped
4 tablespoons diced jalapeno peppers

To smoke tomatoes, place whole peeled or unpeeled tomatoes, sliced in half, into hot smoker. Cook until soft. Remove from smoker, then remove seeds, peel skin and dice.

Add whipping cream to a heavy-bottomed pan and cook on high heat until consistency is reduced by one-third. Add diced, pre-smoked tomatoes and diced jalapeno peppers. Continue to cook until flavors are thoroughly blended. Strain sauce.

To assemble, place fried soft shell crabs on a serving plate. Top with sauce, and garnish with chopped parsley.

CAFE LISÈ

In just one year, owner Chanse Charrier has transformed Covington's Cafe Lisè from a small coffee shop into a full-service specialty restaurant. The menu features gourmet breakfasts with create-your-own omelets and lunchtime favorites that include scrumptious salads and dynamic sandwiches. After dark, the cafe dims the lights and offers a full wine selection to complement specialties like Prime Rib or Seafood-stuffed Chicken Breasts. And you can always count on just the right cup of coffee to enjoy with the chef's creative offerings and seasonal specialties like this Blueberry Parfait.

Blueberry Parfait

1 cup fresh blueberries
1/4 cup apricot preserves
1 pint vanilla frozen yogurt
4 tablespoons slivered almonds, toasted

In a small bowl, combine blueberries and preserves. Cook in microwave on high power for 3-31/2 minutes, stirring twice, until blueberries are softened. Cover and chill until ready to assemble.

Spoon a dollop of blueberry sauce into each of four dessert or parfait glasses, then add a layer of yogurt. Repeat layers and top with toasted almonds. Serve immediately, or store in freezer until ready to serve.

 

 

Copyright 2003, M&L Publishing, all rights reserved.