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Cup 'O Joe

by Stephen Faure

Hyperactive goats started it all—at least according to coffee mythology.

Wondering why his goats were prancing about with more than normal vigor, an Ethiopian herder named Kaldi discovered they had been eating the red berries of a particular bush. Feeling a bit sluggish, he decided to try them and discovered these berries had the same effect on humans. Thus, coffee was discovered. Or so the story goes.

Eventually others tried the fruit. For many years, coffee was not a drink. People ate the red fruit or the dried seeds found inside the fruit, the coffee beans. After making its way to Arabia around 1000 A.D., the Arabs gave it the name “qahwa,” which translates to “that which prevents sleep.” Qahwa is still the term used to describe coffee shops in the Middle East, just as the French word for coffee, café, is used in the West.

The Arabs were also the first to roast, grind and brew coffee. Coffee grown around the Yemeni port city of Mocha was exported around the known world. The mocha variety of coffee is grown along the Red Sea and has a strong, bitter flavor with a distinctive aroma. Today, the term “mocha” has expanded to mean any item flavored with coffee.

As coffee spread throughout Europe, it gained wide popularity. The first coffeehouses in England appeared in the early 17th century and became important gathering places for the exchange of ideas and information. In fact, insurance giant Lloyd’s of London’s origin as a coffee shop is legend.

A coffee shop opened by Edward Lloyd in 1687 near the London waterfront became popular with ship captains and others involved in the shipping industry. While enjoying coffee, they would compare notes on routes and different hazards found at sea. Lloyd took note of what his customers were doing and began publishing a list of ship departures and arrivals, as well as sea conditions on various routes. Eventually, Lloyd and some of his patrons began underwriting vessels and shipments, a business that continues to thrive.

It’s no accident that coffee is an important part of life in the New Orleans area. New Orleans happens to be one of the busiest coffee ports in the world, with cargo containers full of green coffee beans arriving from coffee-producing nations. The beans are re-packaged and then distributed to coffee roasters all over the country.

The coffeehouse tradition in New Orleans lives on in two coffee shops that remain favorites on the southshore, Café du Monde and Morning Call. Morning Call in Metairie originated in the French Quarter, where Café du Monde is still a thriving business. As French Quarter staples, both regularly served café au lait and beignets to all types of people, from dockworkers to debutantes, 24 hours a day.

The rest of the country caught up with New Orleans in the 1990s, when Starbucks franchised stores based on its successful business in Seattle and the gourmet coffeehouse craze hit the United States.

Northshore coffeehouses continue the tradition as important gathering places where plans are made, dates are met, students study, books and newspapers are read, and–maybe—the foundations for that next multi-national corporation will be laid. An important part of our cultural scene, most northshore coffeehouses serve as mini-galleries featuring works by local artists; some feature musicians and poetry readings on a regular basis.

Coffee has always been an important part of life in southern Louisiana. Prior to the coffee shop renaissance, the foremost brand identified with Louisiana coffee was Community Coffee. In the ’90s, Community launched a specialty line under the CC’s brand name and also opened several CC’s Coffee Houses.

CC’s northshore locations are found in Mandeville and Slidell. Both offer a nice selection of coffees and teas, including house blends and exclusive coffee drinks, both hot and cold.

Yin and Yang, the good with the bad. That’s the story of late for Java Grotto. The good: Its location on Mandeville’s Lakeshore Drive, giving it a steady and loyal clientele and its gorgeous view of Lake Pontchartrain. The bad: Its location on Lakeshore Drive and the double whammy of tropical storms Isidore and Lily in 2002, which flooded the shop and almost put it out of business. Lucky for us all, with the help of friends and customers alike, owners Kaia and Pete Kusiw cleaned up the mess and were back in business. When tropical storm Bill hit the area at the beginning of July this year, Kaia was ready for it and damage was kept to a minimum.

Regulars love everything about Java Grotto. Customers say they are treated like best friends, and with good food, especially the Saturday and Sunday brunches, they feel right at home. And nothing beats watching the sunset over the lake from one of Java Grotto’s outdoor tables.

New Orleans-based PJ’s Coffee and Tea Co. has been in business since the late 1970s and has several locations on the northshore. Local franchisees Chris and Stacey Hebert own the Slidell location, which they opened in 1997. Their store on West Hall is unique. It’s located in a renovated home, giving the atmosphere an extra-warm touch.

One thing that keeps Chris going is his clientele. “One of the best things about PJ’s is that our clientele runs the gamut. We have mothers with little bitty kids who come in and tell us the kids were saying ‘Mom, we want to go to PJ’s!’ all the way to senior citizens who come in and can sit together to enjoy some quiet time.”

A little trivia: The Mandeville location on Highway 22 was the first PJ’s franchise sold. The big question: Who is PJ? Answer: Phyllis Jordan, who founded the company.

If you’re looking for a great Sunday brunch in Slidell, try Java Jungle. Laura Simoneaux opened Java Jungle nine years ago on Robert Boulevard. Since then, locals seeking out a great cup of coffee, good food and a place to feel they’re a part of the community have made Java Jungle a popular hangout. Java Jungle is best known for its flavored coffees, with more than 70 varieties available either in-house or by special order. An extensive menu is served daily.

Laura has managed to attract a steady clientele over the years, and a very loyal one at that. She is proud of Java Jungle’s place in the community. The collection of newspaper clippings pinned to a board at the service counter features the achievements of customers and former employees. Most prized are the recent clippings highlighting some of the U.S. servicemen participating in Operation Iraqi Freedom who used to work at Java Jungle.

Located in the heart of historic downtown Covington, St. John’s Coffeehouse provides one of the northshore’s more distinctive coffee drinking establishments. On a hot day, it is truly cool and welcoming, as its massively high, tin-stamped ceilings flush out the heat and prepare you for a cup of great coffee.
Owners Lisa and Richard Knickerbocker are proud of their eclectic clientele that represents all facets of Covington life. Artists and writers mingle with bohemians and lawyers, students and businessmen. There’s live music on Friday and Saturday nights and poetry readings the second Sunday of each month.

St. John’s has an internet-connected computer for customer use. Wireless access is available so patrons can sit anywhere and surf. A variety of sandwiches and pastries are served during the day. Insider tip: The homemade carrot cake and cheesecakes are not to be missed.

With locations in Hammond and Mandeville and plans for expansion beyond the northshore, Garrison’s Global Bar and Life Food Café offers a health-conscious menu and specializes in serving all-organic coffees, teas, salads, sandwiches and baked goods.

Garrison’s has a relaxed atmosphere, with game tables—chess and dominoes are available—and a great selection of books. Works by local artists add to the ambience. Featured artists are rotated on a monthly basis.

Internet-connected terminals are provided at each location, so you don’t have to worry about missing any e-mail while playing hooky from the office.

 

Copyright 2003, M&L Publishing, all rights reserved.